Ponza, Naples, Pompeii

Ponza

What a haven this tiny island turned out to be.  Extremely pretty, protected bay and a delight to explore.  When the weather turned bad and our protected anchorage became bumpy Don took White Rose 1 around to the other side of the island – I always become nervous when we are the only boat in a bay especially in bad weather – “what do they know that we don’t”.   Within a few hours the other boats arrived, beaten and wet as the seas outside were now very rough.  One large power boat had a Scotsman as Captain and was currently under charter by 2 business men (surreptitiously on a fishing trip) who collect their “females” from a different Port and spent 4 days in luxury.  The boat was heading home once the weather allowed and the charter was complete.  We chatted with the Captain and had a few laughs at his “guests” expense.  Next he arrived with bags of food – excess to their requirements.  Hermetically sealed bread, sponge flans 18” in diameter, cakes, packet mixes and fruit and veges – more than we could ever eat but much appreciated, interestingly a lot of the packet mixes, cakes and bread were gluten free. 

Mainland Italy

Sailing from Sardinia to the Almafi Coast of Italy we decided to call into a small town Torr del Greco which was the closest to Mt Vesuvius.  The small fishing harbor was entertaining – it appeared there were several different fishermen in charge of the various derelict wooden platforms that were dubiously called “docks”.  The tiny harbor was crowded but we were welcomed with many shouts, waves beckoning us into the most impossible tight spots – we got in but did worry about how on earth we were going to get out again unless we were towed backwards.   All types of rubbish were floating in the water surrounding our boat – which was embarrassing because of its size – at least twice the size of any other vessel in the harbour.  We quickly became very popular and it did not take us long to realise why – the cost for dockage was ridiculous (€80 / night) – the docks were floating in a cesspool, tied to an ancient wall in between active fishing boats that had not seen a hose or soap for many years, rubbish bins were not heard of so rubbish and 4 legged creatures lined the path – no bathrooms nor water available but we were close to Vesuvius!  The locals were friendly and soon had us laughing, we shared out some of the food given to us by the Scotsman in Ponza – now we really were popular.   The following day we took the train to Pompeii and after trekking around the amazing site we sought Herculean, simply amazing how well preserved these site are.

Vesuvius

Mt. Vesuvius looms over every bit of the Naples region. The only active volcano on the mainland continent of Europe, Mt. Vesuvius is over twelve thousand years old. Its highest point is 1,270 meters high and records show that before 79 A.D. its slopes were probably covered by forest. At its foot the lush soil made cultivation of various crops easy, especially vines.

Vesuvius last erupted in 1944.   Allied fliers took photos of the eruption.

What we call "Vesuvius" is really the younger part of the mountain complex that geologists call "Greater Vesuvius." The older part of the mountain, now an extinct volcano, is called Monte Somma. A fresco recovered from Pompeii shows a single summit--and much taller--Monte Somma covered in vegetation before the eruption of 79 AD.

It is estimated that 2.5 million people could be affected by a significant eruption of Vesuvius. Conditions are closely monitored. There is a plan in place for the evacuation of people nearest the volcano that assumes between two weeks and 20 days warning of an eruption.

Pompeii

Late August, almost 2,000 years ago, the two towns at the foot of Mount Vesuvius went about their daily life as they always had.  Earth tremors, dry wells, howling dogs, and silent birds forewarned the 20,000 residents of Pompeii and the 4,000 citizens of Herculaneum, but they regarded their majestic mountain as a gift from the gods and beyond suspicion.  All this would change in less than twenty-four hours.  A little after midday on 24 August 79 AD a tremendous roar and gargantuan column of flame, rocks, smoke, and dust gushed forth from what had previously been regarded as a mountain; not a volcano. Within a half hour Pompeii, a mere 6 miles southeast of the crater, was pelted with pumice stones so light they floated on the seas. Concerned Pompeians initially took refuge in their homes, but as the weight of the volcanic debris began crushing rooftop structures they began to flee. By dusk it is estimated 90% of the citizens had reached safety.

Thus far Herculaneum, a short 12 miles away, had been spared thanks to strong winds pushing the worst of the volcano’s abuse on Pompeii and nearby Stabiae. Their fate would quickly change when a heavy column laden with dust, ash, and rock weakened, causing the superheated cloud to collapse upon itself. The result was an avalanche of hot ash and gases racing down the mountainside. This pyroclastic surge engulfed Herculaneum, instantly consuming every living being. Hours later a fourth pyroclastic surge would sweep through Pompeii killing all who had remained, approximately 2,000 people. Two further surges sealed both cities within earthen tombs that would take nearly 2,000 years to rediscover.

Excavations at Pompeii

Excavations were begun all the way back in 1748 by Carlo Borbone. Seeking fame, he dug at random for treasures.  It wasn't until the appointment of Guiseppe Fiorelli in 1861 that a systematic excavation was undertaken. Fiorelli was responsible for pioneering the technique of making plaster casts of the victims of the eruption.

Herculaneum

Herculaneum is smaller and better preserved than Pompeii - the town’s destruction being caused by different volcanic debris.  Much of Herculaneum is still being uncovered today.  The site is easily accessible, compact and definitely worth a visit.