Greece - Aegean Sea

Greece - Aegean Sea

Kithnos

31 August 2015

The trip to Kithnos  was one of the worst rides I have had - large confused swell sent the boat in all directions, winds were either nothing or gusting to 28 knots within seconds - sails were reefed whilst boat heeling over, motor turned on as winds died - 6 hrs of nightmare.  I was ill and Don had to handle the boat by himself - he was exhausted by the time we arrived but every move or decision he made was correct - we were tucked up in the anchorage before the others arrived.  "Nawaii" with Sandra's description still being a "little bumpy" arrived - the words became stronger over wine that evening - then "Nick of Time" Alan and Gloria who again had a horrible time.  The two boats left together the following day - I was still recovering and refusing to move.  A beautiful anchorage full of Aussie boats in Greece - what are the chances !  "Nick of Time" had been securely anchored all night then owners went ashore for a walk before heading off - their brand new 55 ft boat dragged anchor (they were anchored next to a wall of rocks where we originally were but we moved into the centre) and fortunately the boat went straight out toward the entrance and not with the wind as that path would have taken it to the rocks in minutes.  An American boat had his outboard on his dinghy and went to rescue Nick of Time, Alan and Gloria rushed out from shore and all was well - shows how easily it can happen.   They were anchored next to us and it took me a while to realise their boat was gone - I said to Don "they are going without saying goodbye" that was until I realised their boat was moving sideways out to sea.  Most of us know what it feels like.  We had friends who had been anchored near mangroves for 2 weeks then dragged.  

We island hopped making our way south/east to Turkey.  Another meltemi was heading our way so we did our research, came up with an almost landlocked bay, the first in the island group of "Dodecanese" named Astipalia (6 September 2015).  10 houses along a 2 klm stretch and other than that there were goats - each one had a bell around its neck - very typical of all the islands in Greece - but this is a large herd and they sound like very loud wind chimes all day and night - it drove Don mad.

Cyclades

2 September 2015

It didn’t take us long to realise that all movement in Greek waters depends on the weather – the meltimi, sicorro and maistro.  These are the names given for mild to very strong wind, often not forecast. 

The winds around the Cyclades are often gentle to no wind - southwest/south/southeast but when the "meltemi" blows it is from the North, can last 3 days to 2 weeks and blows hard.  The meltimi is a very strong wind as a consequence of low-pressure over Pakistan and high pressure over Azores.  The sirocco blows extremely strong (gale force) from the South usually without warning in spring and autumn so we have to keep an eye on the weather.  Unfortunately the forecasts often contradict each other and are wrong so it is a guessing game - do we choose the anchorage on the south side, north side or west - where is the wind coming from, will it be strong or nothing at all.  We stayed in our enclosed bay for a few days.  It was wonderful to be able to do some chores and not have to worry about wind, waves and swell.

Kos

11 September 2015

Kos was our last port of call in Greece. 

Our first night was at anchor in front of the area where the refugees tents are placed - in the early morning I watched two girls, about 6 and 8 years of age playing amongst the rubbish thrown onto the water’s edge by the refugees - the water’s edge is also their toilet and washing facility.  The girls seemed happy making the best of the situation as children do - I watched the mother come out from a tent, strip the youngest, splash her down with sea water, dry her off with her old clothing and put clean clothes back on - very humbling.  That afternoon Don and I collected a large bag of clothes also my stash of "presents for children" and put some packs together with writing pads, pens, crayons, games, glue, scissors, magazines to cut our pictures from - just little things that were not too heavy for them to carry and would stir the imaginations of the children - we walked for a while to find the mother and her girls.  The eldest girl spoke excellent English and was such a bright spark, they all thanked us time and time again - I would have loved to visit and play with them but sadly we left early the next morning.  I wonder what happens to the families once they are processed - how do they get from Kos to the mainland then to another country. I watched as one small boat arrived – it contained mainly young men.  The greeting was amazing – yells of delight, hugs and welcoming handshakes.  Sadly life jackets were thrown into the sea – the shoreline is littered with lifejackets.  Thankfully we have not come across a refugee boat while sailing – the question of what to do would be a difficult one – we have been told to keep clear and not approach unless the boat is in danger of sinking.

My heart breaks for the genuine refugees and I get mad when I read accounts from tourists stating how their holiday was spoilt by having to look at dirty 2 year olds in the street, and eating in a restaurant with refugees peering in.  From what we saw the area was reasonably clean with many rubbish bins and toilet facilities lined up along the streets.  The dock master told a different story – Kos relies on the tourist trade to survive – he said his home island is dying because tourists are going to other islands now, avoiding the refugee problem.  The streets are lined with tents and bored refugees waiting for processing.  It is a very difficult situation for all.

The trip from Kos, Greece to Bodrum, Turkey was all of 1.5hr motor - 20 mins in a ferry !!!