Morocco

Marina Smir

We arrived in Marina Smir to a grand welcome – two Australians were enjoying the hospitality of White Rose within 15 minutes after our arrival – the 3 Australian boats were the only ones visiting the marina – what a wonderful surprise.  Our “check-in” with the police was a preview of what was to come.  Half way through the lengthy paperwork the policeman stopped and carefully watched a couple smooching quite some distance along the sea wall..  The police officer was so appalled at their behaviour he began a tribal dance of hand movements with a foot shuffle thrown in and began a loud authoritive yell at the offenders – and offenders they were – they were actually leaning in towards each other and I believe even kissed – simply not acceptable behaviour in this country – even holding hands can solicit death looks.  I was careful to wear appropriate clothing and behave according to their customs.

We spent 7 days in Marina Smir socialising with Terry (Tasmanian) and Richard (Perth) and visiting local towns.

Tetouan

Chefchaouen

Saidia

Saidia is situated near the border of Morocco and Algeria. Moroccans are very friendly, speak Arabic, French (in Saidia) and Spanish (in Marina Smir) - very little English so I am beginning to remember my few words in Spanish, seems I am always a country behind in the language department and then it only consists of the most basic.   Don and I delight in going to the souks (market) no one annoys you, they love to chat and show you their wares but there is no pressure to purchase.  Fresh vegetables and fruits are laid out on the ground or on old trestle tables, fresh herbs are plentiful and much to my horror the way to have your roast chicken is to find the “chicken man” in the souk, choose the size of bird from the few scrawny partly defeathered samples running around in the dust and dirt – the bird is caught, placed in a plastic bowl for your inspection, taken behind a grubby curtain and arrives looking like a bird from the supermarket.  The red meat is a matter of pointing to the “cut” you want from a complete carcass hanging up for inspection – sheep have the testicles still attached and shown with great pride as male sheep are considered better eating.

Saidia marina is protected in an inner basin and surrounded by restaurants a shopping centre, golf course and beaches – all very clean with beautiful gardens – not what I was expecting at all.  There are amazing villas for sale here - new, 3 stories plus a do dad on top - room for viewing I suppose, some have swimming pools in the back yard - so many big construction sites with very little occupancy - they are trying to make Saidia the "Florida" of the Med.  The money crash is blamed on low occupancy - these villas are 66,000 euros (can't find the symbol for euros) plus you get a free new car!!  No wonder the British and French are buying them for holidays and rental.  There are 3 resorts close by - the golf club one is closed because of lack of bookings - so sad as this place is very clean and very inexpensive - a bus into town is 25 cents, a shared taxi ride to Oujda (1hr) is 2 euros or 20 dirhams - I paid for a meal for 2 people - chicken, wonderful salad, bowl of chips and drinks - more than we could eat and it cost 7 euros all up. 

Moroccans in general hate dogs and culling is a way of life.  We rarely saw a dog who did not belong to a visitor.  Cats are loved.  It is considered good luck to pat a cat especially when eating with your hands (yuk) whereas dogs are dirty and if you dare to touch one you must wash all over and change your clothes because you are now dirty - they shoot them here - there are no dogs to be seen anywhere but lots of cats. Pity the cats don't eat cockroaches because there are plenty of them around also - Don and I do a comparison of how many were in the toilet block that particular morning - one morning I was sharing the shower with only one dead cockroach when the shower stream hit him and he came to life and chased me around the cubicle - I was too scared to scream in case a Moroccan man came in to save me.

Marrakech was wonderful - we took a taxi to Oujda - then an overnight train to Casablanca then ordinary train to Marrakech in company with Rachel and George from SV Gene who kept us entertained the entire time.  We stayed in a Rihad - a private home in the middle of the Medina (old walled city). It was amazing. Rachel and George were way out of their comfort zone but loved every minute of it - well most of it !!! We toured the city, markets and sights for 2 days then back to our boats.

The Djemaa el-Fna is situated in the centre of the Medina.  It is part fairground, part theatre and part zoo.  A wizened old man sits on a dirty rug with his prized possessions set proudly out in front – human teeth for sale !  A troupe of snake charmers with wild hair and staring eyes try to provoke old and tire cobras into displays of aggressions, playing pipes at them with ferocious intensity.  There are fortune tellers, story tellers, fire eaters, performing monkeys, chained and skinny.  There are self taught dentists, astrologers and men who let scorpions loose across their faces – and the crowds are worked for coin. 

 The tannery is another highlight – the tannery in Marrakech is difficult to visit – quite revolting actually.  You will be handed a sprig of mint, in case the stench gets too much to take. Here’s what we learnt. Animal hide is processed in 3 stages. First it is dipped in a solution of milk of lime for 7 days to get rid of the hair. Next it is put in a vat full of bird excrement for 25 days. Then it is whitened with a cornstarch solution. Finally the rough edges are cut off, the skins are left to dry, and dyed.  Visiting a tannery can be a tad surreal. You might come out convinced you’re an accomplice to murder. This is definitely not for the faint-hearted, but it is a unique experience nevertheless and one that doesn’t need to be repeated.

The trip from Saidia to Oujda which is a main city travels along the Algeria border – armed guards appear frequently.  All alongside the road are 5 litre plastic bottles filled with 3 different types of vehicle fuel and a man usually asleep under a tree.   The locals purchase their fuel in this manner – the fuel is “obtained” across a quiet area of the border usually swapped for marihuana and ignored by the guards.  Diesel in Saidia is 1 euro per litre, in Algeria it is 19c so a nice profit. 

Fez

Fes (Fez) is Morocco's oldest Imperial city and its "old town" is now a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Medina (old town) is called Fes el-Bali and behind its high walls is a magical, medieval city just teeming with life in every one of its 9000 narrow streets. Fes is the cultural and spiritual capital of Morocco.

Visiting Fez was great fun - buses that did not turn up, arriving for a train 1 hour early because of a one hour time change that occurs during Ramadan but not known to visitors.  The beautiful old city fascinated me and the young men in the hotel were great - I was invited to "break fast" with them at night - all sitting in a circle and eating with fingers.  I wandered around the souk (market) and bought a cashmere shawl which is likely a fake - how stupid of me to even think it would be cashmere - especially as cashmere goats only live in cold climates.  I bought a lantern / light fitting - I love it but then someone told me it was probably made in China - what spoil sports !!!  I also bought a leather pouf and it stinks.  I had read on the internet what was good to buy and it warned to smell all leather products first as the ingredients used to "tan" hides is foul - bird poo mixed with other horrible stuff - so I did the sniff test and decided all was good.  Now my boat smells of dead cow and the internet says you cannot get rid of the smell - I have wrapped it up in a cotton bag with some baking soda and hope for the best :-)

I find bargaining in the souks difficult, their original asking price can be 300% of its worth but I look at their clothes and living conditions and find it hard to beat them down.  I just do some research, offer the going rate and when they do their horrified look and dance I walk away - they usually chase me.  I just can't play the game - some people enjoy it, I just find it tiring - you even have to haggle for taxi fares.

Fez has a new shopping mall - the first USA look-a-like, apparently the locals were too scared to use the escalators.  The Moroccans may be behind the times with technology, infrastructure and material goods but they certainly make up for it in family values, friendliness and hard work. 

Ramadan

We were fortunate to be in Morocco during Ramadan - I tried fasting for one day and didn't last the distance, Muslims have my admiration for stamina and dedication.  I find the practice difficult to come to terms with considering this year it fell during the hottest part of the year with the longest days and the people cannot eat or drink at until 7.20pm - they are allowed to clean their teeth but not swallow !!!  The rate of long distance bus crashes goes up towards the end of Ramadan - can you imagine working in 30 + degrees and not allowed water - no wonder tempers erupt in the afternoons.  Both Terry and I had occasions to prod taxi drivers who were falling asleep at the wheel – no doubt from dehydration.

I was outside measuring the dinghy for its new clothes when one of the many marina guys offered to hold the tape measure for me.  He said if it turns out good we shall go into business together - he will get the orders and apparently I shall produce the dinghy covers !!  Today he walked by inspecting my work and was horrified to find I was making it out of an old sheet which was so thin it tore in places (this was my dummy pattern) - he didn't say anything just shook his head and walked away, I suspect he was seeing his new business profits go down the drain :-)