Guadeloupe

16 18.0 N 61 48.0 W

Des Haies Anchorage

Guadeloupe is the southernmost of the Leeward Islands in the eastern Caribbean Sea. Guadeloupe consists of two islands shaped like a butterfly with the two halves being separated by a narrow sea channel called Salt River. The larger mountainous side is called “Basse Terre” (low land) and the other smaller low lying is named “Grande Terre” (large land) -makes sense !!

Basse-Terre is a rough volcanic island whereas the eastern Grande-Terre features rolling hills and flat plains.

The folks on “Ner de Well” and Don and I rented a car for two days and circumnavigated the island stopping at waterfalls and hiking tracks. We visited the main town and we actually managed to get our brand of bottom paint for the boat in the local marine chandlery – what a find – of course that means it has to actually get painted on the bottom of the boat – any volunteers ??

We are getting into the volcanic islands now so intermittent rain, stunning views and narrow winding roads. The rain is always welcome as we have been suffering with water shortage since Bahamas. We make water via reverse osmosis with our water maker but it is a very slow process and doesn't keep up with our minimal usage - everyone around us has the same issues. We can purchase water which is usually town water, sometimes good drinking water via reverse osmosis other times from a well and not suitable for our delicate stomachs. Carting water in jerry cans is a pain especially in our dinghy !! The floor is still leaking despite many years of fixing it so when we put a heavy container on the floor the water rushes in - very welcome for tired aching feet :-)

We shall make our way down the western side of the island tomorrow and maybe over to the Saintes, the winds are strong at the moment which will make the 7 mile crossing from one island to the other very rough - our friends who arrived in this bay this afternoon had a very rough crossing from Antigua so we will go as far as comfortable ie. in the lee of the land and see what it is like out there.

We went to the markets today and bought local spices - vanilla bean is grown here but very expensive, I bought turmeric which I haven't been able to find for some time now -and that is because they call it saffron here. I also bought star anise because it smells wonderful - no idea what I am going to do with it though !!! We were given some nutmeg in their shells with the lacy mace still around the outside -too pretty to use and ate some of their starchy fried foods - it was good fun.

We shall make our way down the western side of the island tomorrow and maybe over to the Saintes, the winds are strong at the moment which will make the 7 mile crossing from one island to the other very rough - our friends who arrived in this bay this afternoon had a very rough crossing from Antigua so we will go as far as comfortable ie. in the lee of the land and see what it is like out there.
We went to the markets today and bought local spices - vanilla bean is grown here but very expensive, I bought turmeric which I haven't been able to find for some time now -and that is because they call it saffron here. I also bought star anise because it smells wonderful - no idea what I am going to do with it though !!! We were given some nutmeg in their shells with the lacy mace still around the outside -too pretty to use and ate some of their starchy fried foods - it was good fun.