Vieques

02/24/12
Vieques
18 06.70 N 65 34.70 W

We arrived in Vieques on Friday after a rough ride across.  We had moved along the south coast of mainland Puerto Rico until we had reached the last anchorage - intending to leave at midnight for our sail across to Vieques. We usually move at night as the cooling land at night counteracts the strong trade winds and reduces their intensity at night - during the day they blow - boy do they blow.

Just before we were due to get up we heard a “pan pan” on the radio – it was our friends on “Ner' Do Well”.  They reported taking on water, bilge pump not working and unable to stem flow nor work out where water was coming from – they were sinking.  Heather was on the radio and did an amazing job of “not losing it” the fear sounded in her voice but she gave all correct information whilst Ray worked furiously below trying to locate the leak – Ray was violently seasick and it amazes me how strong these two wonderful people were.  Heather reported that the water was over the cabin floor and up to the engine block – Ray was vomiting then continuing to try to find the leak – their power was going ie no radio.  We couldn't move, we were horrified, that could be any one of us in 20 knot winds, 5 ft waves and battling to save their boat and their lives.  They were traveling with other boats who circled the stricken boat and kept in contact with the Coast Guard.  This story has a happy ending – Ray closed all his sea cocks with the exception of the main engine cooling water and the leak stopped, he then managed to get the bilge pump working and the water level slowly began to go down – you could hear the collective sigh of relief – Ner Do Well was only 7 miles from us but very little anyone could do to assist in those conditions.  We left the shelter of our bay soon after we heard they had their motor running and were slowly making headway.  The conditions were horrible and I have nothing but praise for two very brave people.

Our first anchorage on Vieques was Green Beach – it was a classic tropical island scene with azure water and coconut palm fringed white sand beaches so we spent a relaxing day swimming and exploring the beaches.

We rose early (5am) the next morning before sunup to once again try to beat the trade winds for the short motorsail to Ensenada Honda on the south coast. This anchorage was in a deep bay surrounded by low scrubby hills (mainly cactus) and edged with mangroves, so quite a contrast to Green Beach. The bay was large and very well protected – it would be an ideal hurricane hole. We had some fun exploring some narrow passage ways between the mangroves and discovering a number of enclosed lagoons surprising some of the sleeping bird inhabitants with our putt-putt dinghy.

The next bay on the south coast (Salinas del Sur) was near the west end of the island and a bit rolly not having so much protection from the ocean swells. Until recently US and NATO navies used Vieques as a bombing range and for land, air and sea based war games, particularly near the west end where we were anchored. There were numerous signs planted along the beach with large skull and crossbones with red crosses through them and a picture of a bomb – the warnings were in Spanish but we got the message – do not go ashore !!  This area seldom visited so it was a change to have a bay to ourselves. It was interesting to check out the Google Earth imagery of the area and see the infrastructure left behind – would have been interesting to explore if not for the unexploded bombs. I guess they will eventually get around to cleaning it up.

Our friends on Caribbean Souls and Spirit had elected to travel the North coast and were less than a mile away in the bay over the hill. It was calm over there with coral reefs to snorkel so maybe they mad better choice.